How to apply highlighter
Highlighter is just controlled light — put shine where the sun would naturally hit and skin looks lifted, dewy and expensive. Put it everywhere and you look sweaty. Here's exactly where the glow goes, how to pick liquid, cream or powder for your skin, and the shade that flatters your tone instead of turning ashy.
The checklist
Get the look
Light where the light hits
Highlighter mimics how light naturally falls on your face: the tops of the cheekbones, the brow bone, the inner corners of the eyes, the cupid's bow, the bridge and tip of the nose. Hit those high points and the face reads sculpted and awake — the counterpart to contour's shadow.
The finish is a dial, not a switch. A soft satin sheen reads like great skin; a full metallic beam is a choice for photos and nights out. Start subtle.
The high points map
Where you place highlighter can even reshape the face: a dab on the very top of the cheekbones lifts, on the bridge of the nose slims, in the inner corners opens the eyes, on the cupid's bow plumps the lip. Under-brow catches light and lifts the arch.
Keep it off the mid-cheek, under-eye bags and any raised texture — light there just magnifies pores and puffiness.
Liquid, cream or powder?
Match the formula to your skin and how much glow you want. Texture decides whether it reads "lit" or "greasy".
- Liquid
- The most natural, skin-like glow — mix into foundation for all-over luminosity or dab on high points. Loves dry and normal skin.
- Cream
- A dewy, blendable glow you can apply with fingers, right on top of foundation before powder. Great for a lit, no-makeup finish.
- Powder
- The most control and the biggest impact — best over a powdered base and on oily skin. A light hand is everything.
- The right tool
- A small fan or tapered brush for powder precision; fingers or a damp sponge to press cream/liquid into the skin.
Apply it for a lit-from-within glow
Layer order matters: cream and liquid go before powder, powder highlighter goes last. Build slowly.
- 01
Prep the glow zones
Finish your base first. If using cream or liquid, apply it now — after foundation, before any setting powder.
- 02
Hit the cheekbones
Sweep or dab along the very top of the cheekbone, angling up toward the temple. This is the money spot — it lifts the whole face.
- 03
Add the small points
A touch on the brow bone, inner corners of the eyes, cupid's bow, and the bridge/tip of the nose. Tiny amounts.
- 04
Blend the edges
Tap or buff so there's no hard glittery line — the transition into your skin is what makes it look real.
- 05
Build if you want more
Layer a little at a time for a stronger beam. It's far easier to add glow than to tone down a face that's gone disco-ball.
Glow shades by skin tone
The undertone of your highlighter matters as much as your foundation's — the wrong one goes ashy or chalky.
Highlighter mistakes
- Too much, everywhere
- Glow only on the high points. All-over shine reads as oil, not luminosity.
- Over textured skin
- Highlighter magnifies bumps and large pores. Keep it off raised texture and active breakouts.
- Wrong undertone
- A cool pearl on deep warm skin goes ashy; a warm gold on cool fair skin can look muddy. Match the glow to your undertone.
- Chunky glitter
- Big glitter particles read cheap and settle in lines. Choose a finely-milled sheen for a skin-like glow.
Pro tips for a lit-from-within glow
How to look lit, not greasy.
- Glow only on the high points
- Tops of cheekbones, brow bone, inner corners, cupid's bow, bridge of nose. All-over shine reads as oil.
- Cream/liquid before powder
- Apply cream or liquid highlighter after foundation and before any setting powder; powder highlighter goes last.
- Finely-milled, not chunky
- Fine sheen looks like skin; big glitter particles flash on camera and settle in lines.
- Keep it off texture
- Highlighter magnifies bumps, large pores and breakouts — steer it around raised texture.
Highlighter myths, busted
The rumours behind a lot of over-done glow.
- "More highlighter = more glow."
- Past a point it just reads sweaty. Build a little at a time; you can always add.
- "Translucent highlighter suits everyone."
- Even "universal" highlighters have an undertone — cool pearl goes ashy on warm/deep skin; match warm gold or bronze instead.
- "Dry skin can't do matte anything, oily can't glow."
- Both can glow — oily skin just needs a finely-milled powder highlighter and placement only on the high points.
“When you look better, you feel better.”
Warm gold or cool pearl? Your undertone decides
Highlighter has an undertone too, and the wrong lean is exactly why some glows look luminous and others look grey or muddy. Cool skin tends to glow in pearl and icy pink; warm skin comes alive in gold and champagne; deep skin sings in bronze and copper.
siOsi reads your undertone and depth from one selfie, free — so you pick a highlighter that lights you up from within, not one that sits on top looking chalky.
Watch it done
A few of our favourite video walk-throughs for this look, from makeup artists on YouTube.
How to use highlighter the correct way
Nina Ubhi
Step-by-step highlight & contour for beginners
Alexandra Ruiz
Where to apply highlighter for an expensive look
Jooshica
Answered
Where do you apply highlighter on your face?
On the high points where light naturally hits: the tops of your cheekbones, your brow bone, the inner corners of your eyes, your cupid's bow, and the bridge and tip of your nose. Keep it off the mid-cheek, under-eye area and any raised texture, which highlighter would only magnify.
How do you apply highlighter step by step?
Finish your base first. Apply cream or liquid highlighter after foundation but before powder; apply powder highlighter last. Sweep it along the tops of the cheekbones angling toward the temple, add a touch to the brow bone, inner corners, cupid's bow and nose, then blend the edges so there's no hard line. Build slowly.
Is liquid, cream or powder highlighter best?
Liquid gives the most natural, skin-like glow and suits dry or normal skin; cream is dewy and easy to apply with fingers over foundation; powder gives the most control and impact and suits oily skin or a powdered base. Cream and liquid go on before setting powder, powder highlighter goes on last.
What colour highlighter suits my skin tone?
Fair skin suits champagne, pearl and soft icy pink; medium and olive skin suit gold and warm champagne; deep skin suits bronze, copper and rich gold. Matching the highlighter's undertone to your own is what keeps it from going ashy or chalky — siOsi can read your undertone from a selfie.
Why does my highlighter look ashy or greasy?
Ashy usually means the undertone is too cool for your skin (try a warmer gold or bronze); greasy usually means you applied too much or spread it beyond the high points. Use a finely-milled formula, place it only where light naturally hits, and build gradually.
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